【 A Thousand Questions and Spirited Away Grand Canal 】 Street snacks represent ＂non-legacy＂, and a century-old ＂ear-piercing eyes＂ have been refined like this …

　　Stretching for thousands of miles and flowing for thousands of years, the Grand Canal connects the north and the south, integrates different customs, breeds a unique Grand Canal culture, and leaves many intangible cultural heritages for future generations.

　　Thanks to the convenience of the Grand Canal, Hongqiao District of Tianjin has produced many national and municipal intangible cultural heritages. Among them, the "Erduoyan" fried cake, which was rated as an intangible cultural heritage project in Tianjin in 2009, is well-known and has become one of the "three wonders of Tianjin".

　　Ziyuan riverside

　　"Tianjinwei at the bottom of nine rivers, three pontoons and two passes", a Tianjinwei born by the sea and prospered by water, in which the canal plays a decisive role.

　　The National Museum has a picture of the supervision of the Luhe River, written by Jiang Xuan, a painter in Zhenjiang during the Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty. The picture depicts the scenery of water transportation and folk customs in the Sanchahekou area of Tianjin at the end of Luhe River. The picture is centered on the official ship, which is spread to the left and right sides, and the left side shows the water transportation of the Grand Canal.

　　The water transportation of the Grand Canal brought logistics, which also brought people. In 1892, Liu Wanchun and his nephew Zhang Kuiyuan bought a small frontispiece house on the east side of Tianjin Beidaguan and opened Liu Ji Fried Cake Shop. Because the fried cake shop is located in the alley mouth of Erduoyan, people call Liu Ji fried cake "Erduoyan fried cake" humorously.

　　Where is Peking University Pass? If you ask young people today, many people may not be able to answer, but more than a hundred years ago, it was a well-known bustling place at that time. It was originally located outside the north gate of Chengxiang, at the northern end of the pontoon bridge on the Nanyun River, covering the area around Beimenwai Street in Hongqiao District today.

　　At that time, the business around Sanchahekou and Beidaguan was the most prosperous, and the nearby catering industry was extremely developed, with a variety of fast food snacks and fierce competition. The population is concentrated and the tastes are diverse. Popular snacks should not only be "grasped" in practice, but also be particularly adapted to the life of the market and the dock ecology of Jingu.

　　Because there are many short-term workers, it is necessary to do heavy work and eat enough food. Such regional environment and social and cultural background have created fried cakes, an ordinary snack.

　　In order to make the homemade fried cake win, Liu Wanchun improved the ingredients, quality, taste and flavor. Using high-quality glutinous rice and adzuki bean as raw materials, flour is made, stuffing is made, blank is made and fried. The finished product is a regular oblate sphere, with crisp shell color like gold, white flour like jade, and sweet bean stuffing. It has a strong fermented aroma, and the taste is crisp, fragrant, sticky, soft and sweet, which reflects the ingenuity of "paying attention to production and pursuing taste"; Strictly select materials, improve the frying process of red bean stuffing, and develop techniques such as draining and fermentation in the dough making process; At the same time, a series of unique methods are adopted, such as frying with slow fire and strong fire twice in the frying process to form a unique flavor.

　　Ear-eye fried cake is especially popular among diners, and it has created a brand here.

　　Up to now, Zhu Xiaohao, general manager of Tianjin Erduoyan Fried Cake Catering Co., Ltd., recalls the past and still highly praises the shop motto of "small snacks, conscience first, skill first and reputation first".

　　Fried cake is a traditional food, which is not only delicious, but also auspicious, meaning "step by step". Therefore, it is widely loved by Tianjin citizens, and there are so many diners, so that the telephone poles in front of Erduoyan fried cake shop were shiny.

　　After making a name for himself, Liu Wanchun had savings, set down the two-story building above the shop, and at the same time taught his three sons the production skills, which made Erduoyan Fried Cake a successor. After the founding of New China, Erduoyan Fried Cake became a public-private partnership, which became a state-owned brand product in short supply.

　　"non-legacy" representative

　　The development of Erduoyan Fried Cake has experienced private, state-owned and private transformation. Zhu Xiaohao believes that this brand needs to keep pace with the times if it wants to continue to rejuvenate in the new era.

　　In 1978, Tianjin Catering Company officially named it "Erduoyan Fried Cake Shop", and the inheritance system of traditional skills changed from family inheritance to mentoring inheritance. Many young workers, such as Zhu Xueli, have learned from their teachers, which has given this traditional skill a fourth generation and renewed its vitality.

　　In 2009, the second batch of municipal intangible cultural heritage list and the first batch of municipal intangible cultural heritage expansion project list were published in Tianjin. Ear-hole fried cake making skills and Goubuli steamed stuffed bun making skills were selected into Tianjin intangible cultural heritage list.

　　In 2012, Baoxuan Catering Group acquired Erduoyan Fried Cake Shop, and Erduoyan became private. Since then, Zhu Xiaohao, Baoxuan Catering Group, has become the fifth generation successor of Erdouyan fried cake making skills, and has developed Erdouyan towards modern enterprise management mode.

　　"When I took over, ‘ Ear-piercing eyes ’ It is still the state-owned model of the front shop and the back factory. The production of fried cakes has not been standardized, and the taste is relatively simple. " Zhu Xiaoyu recalled, "It can be said that ‘ Ear-piercing eyes ’ This brand has not played its full value, which requires a modern business model to make ‘ Ear-piercing eyes ’ Rejuvenate. "

　　The staff of the retail department are making fried cakes by hand (data map)

　　forge"national tide"

　　To make "Erduoyan" glow with new vitality, we must work hard from both inside and outside. "Internally, it is necessary to innovate tastes and optimize products. In the popular words, it is to make traditional products into national fashion products, and externally, it is necessary to have a modern business model."

　　In the early years, the traditional fried cake with fragrant incense was made. At that time, the dockers needed to be full, so the fried cake with fragrant incense was very popular. But now people’s diet is healthier and fried with fragrant incense is too greasy. Now the fried cake with fragrant incense has improved the oil formula and is more in line with modern tastes.

　　The glutinous rice fried with ears and eyes is now specially made by mixing a variety of glutinous rice. It is purchased from the place of origin and the stuffing retains the traditional special skills. "Improvements that do not meet the requirements of the times, and the secret parts that conform to the times are carried forward." Zhu Xiaohao and others kept trying. "In order to enrich products and provide more choices for citizens, we also launched fried cakes with red fruits, chocolate, taro and grape fillings, which were very popular."

　　It is not only the innovation of fried cakes, but also more new products are derived from "Erduoyan". Based on the advantages of excellent glutinous rice and excellent fillings, snack products such as donkey rolling, preserved fruit and fruit crisp are made.

　　Nowadays, Erduoyan has opened 20 shops selling fried cakes and snacks in Tianjin, and also opened a Chinese dim sum shop in shopping malls, which has brought this brand into modern life.

　　In 2012, in order to inherit and carry forward the traditional brand, Erduoyan invested in the construction of a production and processing base, covering an area of 60 mu and a building area of over 30,000 square meters. While maintaining the traditional technology, it improved the processing performance of fried cake making equipment and improved the environmental conditions of the production site.

　　"To carry forward the technology of making fried cakes with ear holes, we should not only rely on the old master, but also have standardized advanced equipment to assist production, so as to produce snack products stably, safely and standardly." Zhu Xiaohao led the team full of energy. "Most of the ear-eye management teams we formed are post-90 s, and we ‘ Newcomer ’ To carry forward traditional snacks, it is necessary to have new thinking and new development. " Nowadays, not only snacks and dim sum products, "Erduoyan" has also opened "Erduoyan Guild Hall" and opened stores in Gulou, Tibei and Fifth Avenue.

　　"Ear Eye Club" located in Hubei Road

　　"Let ‘ Ear-piercing eyes ’ It is not only limited to snacks and snacks, but also high-end business cuisines. Only in this way can the Erduoyan brand go to the whole country and the world. In the future, we will open Erduoyan stores nationwide and abroad, and plan to package and promote Tianjin snacks to the whole country and abroad. This is our future development goal. " Zhu Xiaohao said that this is the direction of the company’s team Qi Xin’s concerted efforts.